Egypt Travel Gate: Egypt travel and touring tips

Cairo travel tips

Visiting Cairo, Egypt's capital and Africa's largest city can be an overwhelming experience. More than 16 million people call it home; it's chaotic, exotic, smelly, dusty, and also beautiful. This travel guide to Cairo will help you make sense of the chaos and give you information about what to see in Cairo, when to go to Cairo, how to get around Cairo, where to shop in Cairo, a guide to the Pyramids and how to get there and where to stay when you visit Cairo.

Cairo has probably never been described as dull, so in my opinion it is worth spending more than just a couple of days. There is a lot to see in Cairo. You can enjoy the numerous historic buildings of the city's many rulers - Arab, Roman, Greek, Turkish, British, French - spanning over five millennia. And of course there are the Pyramids and the Sphinx just outside Cairo, in Giza. Cairo is also a great place to shop and soak up some Islamic culture.

When to Go:

As with most destinations in Egypt, the weather really determines the best time to go because it gets very, very hot in the summer. The best time to visit is in the cooler months between November and March.

What to See in Cairo?

Old (Coptic) Cairo:

Coptic Cairo (Masr al-Qadima) is the oldest part of the city, and is the original site of Roman built Babylon. This part of Cairo has been inhabited for more than 2000 years. It is the center of the Coptic Christian community and where you'll find most of Egypt's churches. Highlights include the Hanging Church which is the center of Coptic worship and the Ben Ezra synagogue, Egypt's oldest synagogue. Roman remains and old cobbled streets make this area very interesting for the historians among us. Egyptology Online has more information on the sights of Old Cairo.

Islamic (Medieval) Cairo:

Worth exploring for its warren like streets and bazaars, Islamic Cairo is where you'll get to see many mosques, the Citadel and the Khan Al-Khalili bazaar (see shopping). The major mosques worth visiting include the Mosque of Mohammed Ali (named after a 19th century ruler, not the boxer). The Ibn Tulun is one of the largest mosques in the world and the Al-Azhar mosque houses the oldest university in the world (from 970AD). TourEgypt has a very detailed article about Islamic Cairo's many sights as well as an informative feature on ancient mosques. Islmaic Cairo makes my list of Top Ten Attractions in Egypt.

Egyptian Museum:

If you visit Luxor you'll find most tombs are empty and what the looters didn't take home with them, ended up here at the Egyptian museum. Along with mummies, sarcophagi and many other ancient relics this museum represents Egypt's archaeological glory. The Egyptian Museum makes my list of Top Ten Attractions you should see when you visit Egypt. The objects taken from Tutankhamen's tomb should not be missed. The boy-king's death-mask made of solid gold has been described as the most beautiful object ever made. The museum is open from 9am - 5pm daily. For current information on exhibits and virtual tours visit the museum web site.

City of the Dead (Qarafa):

This may not sound like the liveliest part of Cairo to visit, but this huge necropolis on the East side of Cairo is in fact home to several million Cairenes. A vast 'living cemetery' as it were makes it a fascinating place to visit. Ornate tombs have become the living quarters for many of Cairo's poor and their place of business too. To illustrate its appeal, here is a visual journey.

A Falucca on the Nile:

Tired of breathing exhaust fumes and getting asked to buy a carpet? Head for the peace of the Nile. You can rent a Falucca (an ancient sail boat) by the hour. Take a taxi or walk to Garden City opposite the Meridien Hotel for your launch.

Whirling Dervishes:

Free performances by Sufi dancers take place at the Citadel and on Wednesday and Saturday nights at the Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri in Islamic Cairo. By all accounts these are amazing performances and will not disappoint.

Cairo Tower:

A good place to enjoy a panoramic view of the city while sipping a beer in a slowly revolving restaurant. Located on Gazera Island (Zemalak) it is open from 9am-1am every day.

Bazaars and Bargaining:

One of the pleasures of Cairo is to get lost in the bazaars (souqs) and take in the sights, smells and sounds of life in all its chaos and glory. You can shop for carpets, camels, shoes, books and veils or whatever else takes your fancy. Leave your valuables behind in your hotel and immerse yourself in a world that has changed little in hundreds of years.

For souvenirs most tourists head to Khan Al-Khalili one of the world's oldest bazaars. If you like haggling, this is the place for you. To get away from the souvenir shops head west and you'll have a more authentic souq experience. The main goods sold are gold, silver, copper, perfume, spices, and cloth. Another place that gets good reviews for souvenir shoppers is the Khan Misr Touloun also located in medieval Cairo, just in front of the Mosque Ibn Touloun.

You probably aren't seriously considering buying a 'ship of the desert' but just wait until you see these lovely beasts at the camel bazaar (souq al-gamal). Held every Friday beyond Sharia Sudan in the west of city these beasts have travelled a long way to get to Cairo, so give them a pat on the head. Go early in the morning to get the most out of this bazaar.

Try the Wekalet al-Balah, for fabrics, including Egyptian cotton, the Tent makers' Bazaar for applique-work, Mohammed Ali Street for musical instruments, and Mahmoud Abd El Ghaffar in the Khan Al-Khalili for dance costumes (for the belly-dancers among you).

You get the idea, Cairo is a bit of a shoppers paradise. Not only can you get everything but you can watch most of it get made; what could be more fun?

Here are some bargaining tips that will come in handy at the bazaars:

* Feel free to accept tea from the shopkeeper if it is offered, it doesn't obligate you to buy and it's a nice custom.

* Halve the first asking price and start from there.

* Stay polite and have a sense of humor while bargaining, it is supposed to be fun.

* Walking away is a good way to get the price down quickly.

* Convert the asking price in to your own currency before you end up haggling like crazy over what turns out to be a few pennies.

* Pay what you think the item is worth and don't worry too much if others have paid less.

* If the price is too high or you don't want an item just leave, there will be plenty more opportunities just around the corner.

What to See Around Cairo:

The Pyramids and the Sphinx

You won't want to miss one of Egypt's top attractions, the last surviving member of the Seven Wonders of the World, the Great Pyramid of Giza. There are in fact three main pyramids in Giza; the Great Pyramid of Khufu (or Cheops), The Pyramid of Kafhre and the smaller Pyramid of Menkaura. Each Pyramid is a tomb to a different King of Egypt. In front of the pyramids lies the Sphinx, or Abu al-Hol in Arabic, "Father of Terror". Carved out of a single block of stone, this enormous cat-like sculpture has mesmerized millions of visitors.

Giza's three pyramids and the Sphinx were thought to have been constructed in the fourth dynasty of Egypt's Old Kingdom, arguably the first great civilization on earth. For most of us that translates in to about 5000 years ago. Even though there is still debate about how the pyramids at Giza were built, most are in agreement it wasn't by aliens . It is believed about 20,000 laborers were used and approximately 2 million blocks of stone, each weighing 2.5 tons, just to build the Pyramid of Khufu. For an in depth account of how they were built and a virtual tour inside the Great Pyramid (Khufu) explore the Pyramids with Nova and PBS.

Getting Around and Going Inside the Pyramids:

Getting around the pyramids is easy enough, you can walk, take a horse and buggy or take a camel ride. A couple tips on the camel ride:

* Bargain hard before you get on the camel.

* Don't take a photo of the camel unless you are prepared to pay.

* If you are feeling harassed then grabs your nearest Antiquity Policeman to help you out.

* Enjoy the ride, it is a once in a lifetime experience and worth a few bucks.

Climbing Up:

I have some shaky Super 8 footage of myself as a six-year-old clambering up Khufu but that practice has been strictly forbidden since the 1980's. Some intrepid folks attempt to climb up the sides of the Pyramids late at night, but really, it isn't worth ruining a Wonder of the World just for the thrill of it.

Going In:

You can go inside the pyramids, but beware if you suffer from claustrophobia. The climbs are very steep and narrow so your knees have to be in good shape. Here is a decent account of one person's experience inside Khufu (Cheops). You have to get a separate ticket to enter the pyramids and they are limited to 300 per day so get there early.

Sound and Light Show:

A sound and light show centered around the Sphinx is a nightly occurrence. Although it may sound too touristy for some, everyone ends up learning some interesting facts about the Pyramids and shows are in several different languages.

How to get to the Pyramids?

A taxi from the center of Cairo is probably the easiest way to get to the Pyramids, although mini and micro buses also make frequent trips. An air-conditioned bus also departs regularly from

the Midan Tahrir. For advice on getting to the Pyramids from other parts of Egypt check out this site.

Saqqara:

If you are interested in seeing the forerunner to the Great Pyramid head to Saqqara to see the 'Step Pyramid'. It is considered to be the first pyramid ever built and it dates to around 2800 BC.

Getting Around Cairo?

The best way to get around Cairo is on foot and its density makes it possible to see the main sites even if you're no athlete. But, legs do get tired and if you are a female walking alone you may get weary of the attention you'll no doubt be getting. Cairo is also not an easy city to quickly get your bearings in. Maps will help you and so will the many forms of transport available to you:

Taxi:

There are more little black and white taxis in Cairo than minarets and that's saying something. You can hail a cab from any corner of any street, so getting one isn't a problem. Getting a fair price and emerging at your destination with nerves intact is another story ( the same can be said for cabs in New York). A couple of tips to avoid getting annoyed:

* The meters don't work so agree on the price before you get in to the cab

* Single men sit in the front, single women in the back

* It is not unusual to pick up extra passengers along the way, so don't be alarmed if this happens

* Keep small notes so you can pay the exact amount when you get out of the cab

* Hold on and thank the stars you don't have to drive

Metro:

The only metro system in Africa and its a pleasure to ride. The first carriage is for women only, it runs on time, it runs until midnight and it's cheap. Buy your tickets at the station and hold on to them until you exit at your destination station. Here's a map.

Bus:

Buses and mini-buses are a good option to get around the city if you speak and read Arabic and are on a tight budget. Tickets can be bought on board and be prepared to get up close and personal with your fellow passengers.

Getting to and from the International Airport?

Although arriving in Cairo can be a little overwhelming it isn't a dangerous place. You may get ripped off but violent crime is extremely rare. Don't worry too much about spending your first night in a hotel recommended by your taxi-driver that on hindsight cost you 5 times it should have.

A reasonable taxi fare from the airport to the center of town and vice versa is around 25 Egyptian Pounds

Buses and mini-buses depart both terminals and end up in the center of town at Midan Tahrir, the transport hub of Cairo. They cost less than 1 Egyptian Pound.

Where to Stay?

Like every major world city, Cairo has plenty of accommodation options. Perhaps the best way to narrow down your choices is to decide if you would like a hotel near the Pyramids, near the airport (Heliopolis), in the center of town or in some of the finer, quieter neighbourhoods like Zamalek.

Cheap hotels for those on a budget can mostly be found in central Cairo between Midan Tahrir and the train station. Use the Lonely Planet Guidebook to find where they are.

Alexandria travel tips

The second largest city in Egypt, Alexandria, known as "The Pearl of the Mediterranean", has an atmosphere that is more Mediterranean than Middle Eastern ; its ambience and cultural heritage distance it from the rest of the country although it is actually only 225 km. from Cairo.

Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC, Alexandria became the capital of Graeco-Roman Egypt, its status as a beacon of culture symbolized by Pharos, the legendary lighthouse that was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The setting for the stormy relationship between Cleopatra and Mark Antony, Alexandria was also the center of learning in the ancient world. But ancient Alexandria declined, and when Napoleon landed, he found a sparsely populated fishing village.

From the 19th century Alexandria took a new role, as a focus for Egypt's commercial and maritime expansion. This Alexandria has been immortalized by writers such as E-M- Forster and Cavafy. Generations of immigrants from Greece, Italy and the Levant settled here and made the city synonymous with commerce, cosmopolitanism and bohemian culture.

Alexandria is a city to explore at random. It's as important to enjoy the atmosphere as it is to see the sights.

Old Alexandria

Dinocrates built the Heptastadion, the causeway between Pharos and the mainland. This divided the harbors into the Western and Eastern. The Eastern harbor was really where the old harbor from the Middle Ages was located.

Of modern Alexandria, the oldest section is along the causeway which links what was once Pharos island with the mainland and includes the districts of Gumrok (the oldest dating to about the 16th century and known as the customs district) Anfushi, and Ras el-Tin (Cape of Figs). The latter two districts date to about the period of Mohammed Ali (1805-49). Collectively, these districts are known to westerners as the Turkish Quarter. They have had a number of ups and downs over the years, particularly due to the plague during the 17th century. The area forms somewhat of a T-shape, dividing the Eastern Harbor from the Western Harbor.

This section of Alexandria is known to us more from books then what we may actually see in the area. Where the Pharos Lighthouse once stood, is now occupied by the Fort of Quit Bay out on the area that circles up around the top of Eastern Harbor forming the eastern section of the top of the T. Heading south from the Fort of Quit Bay, we come to the stunning Abu El-Abbas Mosque . West of this is the Anfushi Tombs , some of the oldest in Alexandria and well worth a visit.

Heading towards the mainland past the Abu El-Abbas Mosque and connecting with Shari Faransa street leads to the Suq district. Just before entering the district one finds the interesting little Terbana Mosque . In the Suq district, one finds Alexandria's only surviving wakalas, which is a part of the El-Shorbagi Mosque complex founded in 1757. This was also the area where Alexandria's Jewish community lived, but most have now migrated to Israel. Different areas have specialized in different goods and one may find all manner of products from jewelry to Medicinal plants (Suq El-Magharba) to Bedouin clothing (Suq El-Libia).

Continuing down Faransa one passes Midan Tahrir and the street turns into Salah Salem, and finally connects with Al-Horreya.

However, Midan Tahrir, popularly called Manshiya, has considerable history. The areas was once home to Diplomats and known as Place Des Consuls, but after the statue of Mohammed Ali was placed here in 1873 the name was changed to Midan Mohammed Ali. In 1882, it was bombarded by the British and all but destroyed. The Alexandria Stock Exchange was once located here, and it was from the midan that Nasser announced the nationalization of the Suez Canal.

The street named Al-Horreya (Tariq abd el-Nasser) which transverses the area from east to west was in ancient times the Canopic Way with the Gate of the Sun at the eastern end and the Gate of the Moon at the western end. At that time, there were probably columns lining the road. The main north to south street, now Sharia el-Nebi Daniel, ran from the East Harbor all the way to Lake Harbor on Lake Mariout.

Just south of the intersection of Al Horreya and el-Nebi Daniel was the site traditionally thought to be the burial place of Alexander the Great, but that has not been located, and may in fact be beneath the Mosque of Nebi Daniel or in a nearby Greek necropolis. The famous Alexandria Library was probably nearby. However, the only real antiquities site that can be viewed in the area is Kom el-Dikka , a small Roman theater that has been excavated. Nearby is also a bath house of the era. To the east is the Antiques District where dealers sell antiquities, books, old weapons and furniture. Here is also the Attarine Mosque, which was once a church dedicated to Athanasius.

Further south along the tramway is Pompey's pillar and nearby the Catacombs of Kom ash-Shuqqafa.

Wondering along el-Nebi Daniel are several other attrations, including the French Cultural Center, and nearby the Eliahu Hanabi Synagague, which is the only active synagogue in Alexandria and houses the combined treasures of the seven former Alexandrian synagogues.

Back to the north on el-Nebi Daniel, next to the harbor where Ramla station is now located at Midan Saad Zaghlul was the location of the Caesareum . This was a magnificent temple begun by Cleopatra for her lover Antony and subsequently completed by their enemy Octavian, though none of this remains.in situ. Nearby is the well known Cecil Hotel, built in 1930, Smerset Maugham stayed here, as did Winston Churchill, and the British Secret Service one maintained a suite for their operations.

Midan Saad Zaghlul is the entertainment heart and nerve center of Alexandria. here, as terminals and train stations provide a backdrop for cinemas, restaurants and night spots. It was the setting of Lawrence Durrell's Alexandria Quartet and the famous Alexandria coffee houses. The square is dominated by an impressive monument dedicated to Saad Zaghlul, a former national leader.

The Greek Quarter and Bab Rosetta District

Back on Al Horreya heading east, as we pass the Graeco-Roman Museum (a notable museum well worth a visit) we move into the Greek Quarter of Alexandria, one of the most beautiful residential districts. The wonderful old villas include the massive Miclavez building, which is opposite the Town Hall and nearby the Adda Complex built in 1929. This is where the wealthy Greeks lived at the turn of the century, and the streets are still named after the Ptolemic, Pharaonic, Abbasid and Fatimid rulers. Further east is the Greek Orthodox patriarchate andthe Church of St. Saba.

Further east, Al Horreya opens into a beautiful green area known as the Shallalat Gardens, which was once the fortification of Bab Rosetta. But in 1905, Alexandria created a garden area here with waterfalls and the only Alexandria cistern which can be viewed. This cistern is an example of those which once dotted Alexandria providing fresh water to her inhabitants.

The Corniche

The Corniche is doted with Casinos built on stilts and rows of beach huts. The avenue here did not always exists, for until the 20th century, the areas remained fortified by a five mile long wall with towers which had protected the city since the 13th Century. In the early 1900s, a strip of land with a width of about 100 years was reclaimed from the sea, and the area became popular with beach goers. That is no longer the case, but it remains a lively area of Alexandria.

On the western end of the Corniche near Silsila where the New Alexandria Library is being constructed is the Shatby Tombs which are said to be the oldest in Alexandria. Nearer the San Stefano area across the tram tracks is also the Royal Jewelry Museum.

The Mahmudiya Canal

A walk along the Mahmudiya Canal brings one face to face with the working class and industrial districts of Alexandria, and is pleasant along the old paved road bordered by the canal and sycamore trees. South of the Greek district along the canal is the Antoniadis Gardens, which seep with history. Here, the poet Callimachus lived and taught, and in 640 AD, Pompilius prvented the King of Syria from capturing Alexandria. But less then a year later, Amr Ibn el-As camped here, before taking the city. The well known Water Traffic Circle is also in the area.

Here one finds the Zoological Gardens, the small Museum of Natural History and the Fine Arts Museum in the Moharrem Bey area, and a Rose Garden. The beautiful public gardens extend into the surrounding area where the Antoniadis Palace is located, and there is even a nearby Roman tomb.

El-Muntaza

This area along the coast about 15 miles east of Alexandrias old district along the Corniche is where many of the modern Alexandrian hotels are located, as well as one of the elegant heritage hotels. Khedive Abbas II built the Salamlik as a residence. Here also is the magnificent Montaza Palace..

Egyptian museum

History:

The Egyptian Museum of Antiquities contains many important pieces of history. Not only does it house the world’s largest collection of Pharaonic antiquities, it also houses the many treasures of King Tutankhamen, and many interesting statues that moved with the museums many relocations. The Egyptian government established the museum, built in 1835 near the Asbakiya Gardens. The museum soon moved to Boulaq in 1858 because the original building was too small to hold all of the artifacts. In 1855, shortly after the artifacts were moved, Duke Maximilian of Austria was given all of the artifacts. He hired a French architect to design and construct a new museum for the antiquities. The new building was to be constructed on the bank of the Nile River in Boulaq. In 1878, after the museum was completed for some time, it suffered irreversible damage; a flood of the Nile River caused the antiquities to be relocated to another museum, in Giza. The artifacts remained there until 1902 when they were moved, for the last time to the current museum in Tahrir Square.

Interior design:

There are two main floors of the museum, the ground floor and the first floor. On the ground floor visitors will find an extensive collection of papyrus and coins used in the Ancient world. The numerous pieces of papyrus are generally small fragments, due to their decay over the past two millennia. Several languages are found on these pieces, including Greek, Latin, Arabic, and the Ancient Egyptian writing language of hieroglyphs. The coins found on this floor are made of many different elements, including gold, silver, and bronze. The coins are not only Egyptian, but also Greek, Roman, and Islamic, which has helped historians research the history of Ancient Egyptian trade. Also on the ground floor are artifacts from the New Kingdom, the time period between 1550 and 1070 BC. These artifacts are generally larger than items created in earlier centuries. Those items include statues, tables, and coffins. If visitors follow these displays in chronological order they will end up on the first floor, which contains artifacts from the final two dynasties of Ancient Egypt. Some artifacts in this area include items from the tombs of the Pharaohs Tuhtmosis III, Tuhtmosis IV, Amenophis II, Hatshepsut, and Maherpen, and also many artifacts taken from the legendary Valley of the Kings.

King Tutankhamun:

The majority of the world has come to know the tomb of King Tutankhamun better than any royal tombs because unlike the others, it was found mostly intact. Inside the tomb you will find a large collection of artifacts used throughout the King’s life. These artifacts range from a decorated chest, which was most likely used as a closet or suitcase, to ivory and gold bracelets, necklaces, and other decorative jewelry, to alabaster vases and flasks. The tomb is also home to many weapons and instruments used by the King. Although the tomb holds over 3,500 artifacts, it should be noted that this tomb was not found completely intact. In fact, there have been at least two robberies of the tomb, perhaps soon after Tutankhamun's burial. The most well known artifact in King Tutankhamun’s tomb is the infamous Gold Mask, which rests over the bandages that wrap around the King’s face. The mask weighs in at 24 pounds of solid gold, and is believed to represent what the King’s face really looked like. Many features of the mask the eyes, nose, lips and chin are all represented in a youthful way.

Pharaohs:

The remains of many famous Pharaohs are stored in the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. One of these is Pharaoh Ramses III, who was an extremely skilled warrior. His army was very impressive, as it has been duplicated and copied all over the world. For many of the mummified pharaohs, it has been very difficult to determine when they were born. Also, historians can only estimate a time when they reigned over Egypt. For Amenhotep IV, historians have estimated that he reigned around 1372 B.C. They knew this because they found out when Amenhotep IV's father, Amenhotep III died. Also, that Amenhotep IV's tomb inscribed five names he gave himself and one of them, Golden Horus, proves that he was crowned on the bank of the Nile, his father's favorite domain. Before he even became pharaoh, however, he was already married to Nefertiti, a radiant beauty. But, when Amenhotep IV did become pharaoh, he destroyed the religion of Amun. He did this because he wanted start his own new religion of Aten, the disc which sent out rays ending in hands. King Snofru was believed to be the first king of the Fourth Dynasty. The year Snofru was believed to have start reigning over Egypt was around 2620 B.C. Snofru is believed to be a fair and just king. Master of Justice or of Truth was his other choice name. Snofru, like many other kings, built many temples and structures. All of Snofru’s structures and buildings had a signature. His signature was having a statue of a woman symbolizing the foundation. The statue of the young women is presenting the sign of life and votive offerings, as well as the signs of the city and the stronghold. There are about four or five of these in each province. A lot of the pharaohs had coronation names and they all seemed to be a like. For example, Snofru, Tut, and Amenhotep all had name Golden Horus.

The catacomb of Kom El-Shuqafa

The catacomb of Kom El-Shuqafa (Shoqafa, Shaqafa) is one of Alexandria's most memorable monuments. Identified as "a tour-de-force of rock-cut architecture which would be remarkable in any period," the Great Catacomb defies comprehensible description. Its vast, intricately decorated interior spaces cut at so great a depth into the rock present an enormity of experience outside the normal human realm and tell us of a level of technological expertise equaling enterprises of A side sketch of the Catacombs of Kom el-Shuqafamodern subways and tunnels while far surpassing them in aesthetic response.

Kom El-Shuqafa is the Arab translation of the ancient Greek name, Lofus Kiramaikos, meaning "Mound of Shards" or "Potsherds." Its actual ancient Egyptian name was Ra-Qedil.

These catacombs date back to the late first century AD. Kom El-Shuqafa lies on the site where the village and fishing port of Rhakotis, the oldest part of Alexandria that predates Alexander the Great, was located. They are A recreation of the superstructure of the tomb at Marina el-Alameinsituated in the Karmouz district of western Alexandria, which is now one of the most densely populated districts of Alexandria. This district itself was used by Mohammad Ali Pasha to defend the city. Then the area was destroyed in about 1850.

On its western side, as usual in Egyptian funerary practices, lies its “City of the Dead.” However, while the ancient Egyptians mummifed their dead, the Hellenistic custom was for cremation. This area used to contain a mound of shards of terra cotta which mostly consisted of jars and objects made of clay. These objects were mostly left by those visiting the tombs, who would bring food and wine for their consumption during the visit. However, they did not wish to carry these containers home from this place of death.

Excavations of the site began in 1892 but no catacombs were actually found until Friday, September 28th, 1900 when according to tradition, by mere chance, a donkey pulling a cart fell through a hole in the ground and into one of the catacombs. However, in reality, the discovery was made on that date by an Alexandrian, Monsieur Es-Sayed A Kom El-Shuqafa ticket stubAly Gibarah, who immediately sought out Botti at the Museum, explaining that, "While quarrying for stone, I broke open the vault of a subterranean tomb; come see it, take the antiquities if there are any, and authorize me to get on with my work without delay."

Little did Botti know what glorious finds he would make, but this day he would not visit the catacombs. He later explained that, since the discovery happened on a Friday, a day off for most Muslims, the museum was very busy and he had meetings that day. Besides, he had often been called out to see valueless work, and was therefore very satisfied to leave his visit until the next day. However, because the stone worker was so insistent on getting back to work, he allowed his inspector, Silvio Beghe, and an attendant, Abdou Daoud, to leave the museum at five o'clock, one half hour early, in order to visit the find and report back to him that evening. The next day, he would be astounded by this discovery. The site was opened for the public only in 1995 after pumping the subsoil water from the 2nd level.

The Necropolis is of the catacomb type that was widespread during the first three centuries in Italy (Rome). This type of catacomb was usually limited to the burial of deceased Christians. It was, to the believers of this new religion, an asylum where they could be safe from the injustice of the emperors. In the tombs below the cathedral of Saint Sebastian in Rome we Unique decorations inside Kom el-Shuqafacan find catacombs in the form of streets stretching for many miles, with tombs to their sites. However, in the Necropolis of Kom el-Shuqafa there is no trace of Christian burials.

The catacombs are unique both for their plan and for its decoration which represents a melding and mixing of the cultures and traditions of the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. It was a place where people seemed to have a talent for combining rather than destroying cultures. Though the funerary motifs are pure ancient Egyptian, the architects and artists were clearly trained in the Greco-Roman style. Here then, we find decorations related to ancient Egyptian themes, but with an amazing twist that makes them quite unlike anything else in the world.

Scholars believe that the catacombs at first may have served only one wealthy family that still practiced the ancient Egyptian pagan religion. However, they were expanded into a mass Looking down the light wellburial site, probably administered by a corporation with dues-paying members, perhaps because of its pagan heritage. This theory could explain why so many chambers were hewn from the rock. In its final stage, the complex contained over one hundred loculi and numerous rock-cut sarcophagus tombs.

Some believe that the scale of this endeavor precludes the catacombs as representing a private monument. Alan Rowe thought that the complex was cut originally as a Serapeum rather than as a tomb complex. Though there is no solid evidence to support his theory, the complexity of the undertaking seems to almost preclude private patronage.

Looking up the light wellThese tombs represent the last existing major construction related to the ancient Egyptian religion. This was also the case in the Pankrati tomb in Rome. They dug out loculi and then closed the openings with marble and limestone. The name was written on the tomb in a different way from Italy, depending on the artistic style used. At Kom El-Shuqafa there is a mixture between Roman and the Pharaonic arts, which is not only represented in the architecture of the tomb, but also its engraving and statues. This mixture may have perhaps resulted because the opportunity in both Egypt and Alexandria gave rise to the mixture of the Greek and Romans arts with the Pharaonic art of Egypt which was prevalent in Egypt since Alexander's feet trod its grounds. Or perhaps it was the desire of the tomb's owner that the artist realize a mixture between both the Roman and Egyptian arts as was the effect of religious scenes shown in the drawings, and effect of Roman and Egyptian religions

One of the exedrae, a niche within the first level vestibuleThe catacomb is composed of a ground level construction that probably served as a funerary chapel, a deep spiral stairway and three underground levels for the funerary ritual and entombment. The first level consists of a vestibule with a double exedra, a rotunda and a triclinium. The second level, in its original state, was the main tomb, with various surrounding corridors. It was reached by a monumental staircase from the rotunda. The third level is submerged in ground water, which has also caused it to be saturated with sand. The Catacomb is one of the most inspired monuments of Alexandrian funerary architecture, following the conceptual design laid down in the Ptolemaic period, but disposing the elements of the tomb on a vertical rather than a horizontal axis.

The remains of an extensive mosaic pavement discovered during the Sieglin Expedition near the entrance to Kom el-Shuqafa and directly above the Hall of Caracalla allowed Schreiber to reconstruct a large funerary chapel directly above the spiral staircase that descends to the A view of the RotundaCatacomb. A possible model for reconstructing this chapel, contemporaneous with Kom el-Shuqafa, is preserved at the recently excavated site of Marina el-Alamein, 96 kilometers west of Alexandria. That structure is a large, broad building, entered on its long side. It has a very symmetrically arranged core that is preceded by a portico with eight Ionic columns.

The central part of this building beyond the portico is entirely devoted to a large banquet room paved with rectangular slabs of limestone and fitted with two stone banquet couches with their legs and horizontal beams indicated in relief as those of Ptolemaic Klinai. To the left and right of the banquet room are two smaller rooms, presumably for service. At the back fo the banquet hall is a monumental doorway flanked by engaged semi-columns that opens onto a short corridor that leads to a staircase down into the hypogeum.

A slightly different view of the RotundaAt Kom el-Shuqafa, a shaft about six meters in diameter contains both the spiral staircase, which is preserved to a height of about ten meters, and the central light well around which the steps wind. Most other tombs at Alexandria have square shafts, but this one is round. These shafts were not only used to light the tombs, but to lower the bodies of the deceased down to the actual burial area. The wall that encloses the stairwell and separates it from the light well consists of squared blocks pierced by arched windows that have slanted sills in order to direct light downward onto the stairs. There are ninety-nine steps that decrease in height as they approach the surface, so that at the top there is almost no steps at all. This was designed for the tomb visitors so that after viewing the deceased in the lower levels, the climb back up to the surface would become easier as the visitor became tired from the climb out.

A view of the TricliniumThis spiral staircase only went as low as the first floor and lead to a vestibule with two, opposed niches, known as exedrae. These were actually seats where visitors could rest. The niches were paved with alabaster and sheltered with shell style conch-shaped semi-domes. The ceiling of these niches were in the form of a semi dome ornamented as a shell. This type of design can be dated to the Antoinini period of Roman rule, or about the second century AD. There are also some remains a mosaic floor.

The vestibule leads to the rotunda, which is the focal point of the first level. It is a cylindrical shaft surrounded by a ring-shaped ambulatory. The shaft is capped by a dome supported by six pilasters. A low parapet between the pilasters enclosed the shaft, setting it off from the Another view of the tricliniumambulatory. At the bottom of this shaft were found five stone hands that were removed to the Greco-Roman Museum, but casts were made of them that can be seen on the parapet.

To the left (southeast) of the rotunda the tombs have a funeral banquet hall called a "Triclinium", which sits to a right angle to the vestibule. The entrance of the triclinium opens onto a huge room, nearly nine meters square, cut with four freestanding piers with Doric anta capitals. Between these piers are three rock-cut couches, each about two meters wide, that form the typical U-shape so that the diners could easily converse as they reclined. A raised ceiling cut above the area segmented by the four piers provides the impression of a light well and adds a sense of openness to the otherwise featureless room. The two piers that face the A drawing depicting a banquet within the Tricliniumentrance have insets to hold lamps or torches, and on days of feasting the benches would have surely been covered with elaborately patterned mattresses and cushions, evidenced by their depiction on Ptolemaic rock-cut klinai and on Roman sarcophagi outside Egypt. There may have been tables made of wood or stone here, but they have disappeared.

At a right angle to the triclinium and on an axis with the vestibule, a wide staircase from the Rotanda, which divides to accommodate the prompter's box (a covered shaft to the third lower level), leads down to the second level that contains the Main Tomb. This staircase is composed of fifteen steps that lead to a narrow landing from which the divided staircase of six additional steps continues to the Main Tomb. This is a similar arrangement to Egyptian rock-cut tombs, but is different than monumental staircases of the Hellenistic period..

All about Luxor

Travel to Luxor and you will know why it is one of Egypt's great tourist attractions. It is also commonly known as the world's largest open air museum. Luxor is built on and around the ancient site of Thebes. Tourists have been visiting the area since the Greco-Roman times, so you won't be the first! There are so many splendid temples and monuments to visit you will have to be picky if you don't want to get "templed out". Luxor is actually three separate areas each with their own highlights.

The City of Luxor

Luxor Temple situated in the center of town, was built by the New Kingdom Pharaoh Amenophis III. It is spectacular and so compact it can be visited in an hour. Hours are 9am - 6pm and admission is 20 Egyptian Pounds.

The Mummification Museum has everything you've ever wanted to know about mummies and the process of mummification. Who knew that reptiles, birds as well as humans were mummified?!

The Luxor Museum houses many of the relics found at the Theben temples and necropolis on the west bank. The museum comes highly recommended because it will enrich your experience when you visit the rest of the sites.

Karnak

North of Luxor city are the spectacular Temples of Karnak. In ancient times, Karnak was known as Ipet-isut, 'The most select of places'. The temple complex of Karnak was built over a time period of 1500 years and was the most important place of worship in ancient Egypt. The site is huge, measuring 1500 x 800 meters, and is a spectacular complex of sanctuaries, kiosks, pylons and obelisks, all dedicated to the Theban gods. It is thought to be the largest surviving religious complex in the world. If you don't have the energy to cover all that ground then don't miss the Hypostile Hall in the Great Temple of Amun. There are several performances of the sound and light show a night with mixed reviews, but mostly good.

Ancient Thebes (West Bank)

Crossing the Nile to the West of the city of Luxor lies the necropolis of ancient Thebes. Because there is so much to see and so much ground to cover, guided tours usually enter 3 tombs at the major archaelogical sites.

The Valley of the Kings:

This is where the pharaoh's were buried and hoped to meet their Gods in the afterlife. Tutankhamun's tomb discovered in the 1920's almost untouched is perhaps the best known to most of us non-archaeologists. But he was a minor king in the scheme of things and had it not been for centuries of looting, the larger more impressive tombs would have yielded riches unsurpassed to the impressive haul found in King Tut's burial ground. For a complete list of tombs that are open to the public in the Valley of the Kings see this list from the Egyptian Monuments site.

The Valley of the Queens:

The Valley of the Queens lies at the southern end of the necropolis. This is where the queens and their children were interred. Only four tombs are open to the public in the Valley of the Queens and if you had to choose just one, it would have to be Queen Nefertari's tomb. Tickets are limited to just 150 a day and you are only allowed in for 10 minutes, but it is worth the effort.

The Colossi of Memnon:

Two giant statues make up the Colossi of Memnon. Most visitors get a glimpse of them on their way to the Valley of the Kings but it is worth a stop to see them up close.

Getting to Luxor

You can take almost every mode of transport to Luxor since it is the destination for most visitors to Egypt. There are regular buses, taxis and trains from Cairo and other major towns across Egypt. You can take a Felucca from Aswan along the Nile and there are even international as well as domestic flight options. The most comfortable way to get to Luxor from Cairo is probably an air-conditioned train. More information.

Note: A hot air balloon ride is probably not your usual mode of transportation but is a great way to see the sights and get some distance from the rest of the throng of tourists.

Getting Around

City of Luxor to Karnak:

Karnak Temple is on the northern edge of the town of Luxor. It is within walking distance from the center of Luxor city (just over a mile), but visitors may prefer to take a taxi or a caleche (horse-drawn carriage) each way from the center of town. Set a price before you get in to the caleche!

City of Luxor to the West Bank (Thebes):

Across the Nile:

You can take the passenger ferry from Luxor Corniche to el-Gezira. The ferry crosses the river constantly until late evening when it becomes less frequent. There are tourist ferries and regular ferries, either option will get you to the sites. You can also cross the river by private motor boat. There are always taxis waiting at the ferry terminal to take visitors around the monuments.

By Road:

You can take a taxi from Luxor which will take the long route across the new Nile bridge. There is also the 'arabaya' or local bus service which will drop you off anywhere on the circuit. Bicycles can be hired in Luxor or at el-Gezira. Tickets must be purchased at the ticket office (the 'taftish' is around 6 kilometers from the ferry, just past the Colossi of Memnon) before going to the monuments.

Where to Stay

City of Luxor

Most of the hotels are in the city of Luxor. There are plenty of options from luxurious to flophouse. For your real budget accommodation you will have to use a Lonely Planet guide and book on the spot. TourEgypt has a good list of luxury hotels and mid-range hotels. A very good hotel with pool and perhaps a Nile view won't set you back more than $75 a night.

West Bank, Thebes

There are fewer places to stay on the west bank but I did find a decent list of hotels. You have to excuse the very odd English on this site, phrases such as "Completely after the slogan small however finely tinker the village inhabitants at their touristic future" are a tad confusing.

When to Go to Luxor

The best time to visit Luxor is from October to March when the weather is a little cooler.

Tips on "Tombing"

Depending on the time of year, Luxor is hotter than hot. Even in the winter months the temperatures can get in to the high 80's Fahrenheit(30 C). If you are in Luxor during the summer months try and get an early morning start and take a break for a long lunch at midday. Sneakers have been known to melt on the soft feet of unsuspecting tourists.

* Water - bring lots of it and make sure the bottle has a new seal.

* Sunglasses - the glare is significant when you come out of a tomb.

* Sunscreen - sunblock is best.

* Sunhat - floppy is good or a pith helmet ...

* Flashlight - serious tombers take note, not all tombs are very well lit and you may need some extra light to see details.

* Tickets - you need tickets to get in to the tombs and tickets for all camera equipment. You can buy these at various points in the necropolis and sometimes at the entrance of the bigger tombs.

* Your Health - Climbing up the sides of hills in the heat can be tiring. Limit yourself to three tombs or so for a day and you should be fine. Also beware if you are claustrophobic, it is hot and narrow in many of the tombs.

Further Reading:

* Rick Steves has a good article about his visit to Luxor and a handy 5 day itinerary.

* Tour Egypt is the most detailed online guide for many destinations in Egypt, their Luxor section is very detailed and includes maps of the city.

* Visit the Temple of Luxor and several tombs online with NOVA's excellent virtual tours.

* Confused about which pharaoh ruled when? Who built what pyramid? The BBC has an very informative Ancient Egypt site that gives timelines, tips on mummification and more.

Aswan travel tips

Aswan is the smallest of the three major tourist cities based on the Nile. Being the furthest south of the three, it has a large population of Nubian people, mostly resettled from their homeland in the area flooded by Lake Nasser. Aswan is the home of many granite quarries from which most of the Obelisks seen in Luxor were sourced. Aswan was the ancient Egyptians' gateway to Africa, and many raiding parties began their travel south from Aswan.

Get in

By plane

An average of six return flights a day are maintained by Egyptair between Aswan and the Egyptian capital Cairo. One morning flight also exists between Luxor and Aswan, the lower frequency reflecting the cities' greater proximity and practical alternatives like train and taxi.

By train

Egypt's train service which runs along the nile extends down to Aswan and is a regular and a good travel alternative.

By bus

If you are in Hurghada you can catch a bus from there down to Aswan for less than $7

Hurghada-Aswan is around 300 kilometres but as Egyptian buses aren't always very reliable the trip could take anything from three hours to nine.

By boat

Sharm el-Sheikh in Sinai --> boat to Hurghada --> bus to Aswan --> approximately $15

Dozens of cruise ships depart from Luxor to Aswan everyday. These can be booked through agents or at the actual ships themselves.

Get around

Aswan is compact enough to negotiate primarily on foot. For weary feet or for some of the more far flung attractions (like Philae, the High Dam and the unfinished obelisks) there are other options that include taxis and horse-drawn carriages. Note that to access the sights on the river islands or on the West Bank, you will need to cross the river by motor boat or felluca.

See

The souqs (markets) in Aswan are refreshingly exotic without the same level of high-pressure selling found in some tourist towns further north - see below in Buy

Aswan Town and the East Bank

Nubian Museum, located opposite the Basma Hotel, south of the Old Cataract Hotel, at the southern edge of Aswan town on Sharia Abtal al-Tahrir - approximately a half hour walk from the city centre. Entry EGY£20. Camera fee: EGY£10. Open daily 0900-1300 and 1700-2100.

Unfinished Obelisk, gives a glimpse into the way these structures were constructed.

The River and Islands

Sehel Island - Well known for its excellent beaded jewelry. Also the location of the Famine Stela. The site is open till 4:00 P.M.

Elephantine Island - The local Nubian villages of Siou and Koti occupy this island. Also home to the famous Nilometers and the Temples of Sati, Khnum and Pepinakht-Heqaib.

* Kitcheners Island - Also known as Plantation Island: has wonderful botanical gardens amidst the Nile.

Karnak Temple

Overview

The complex is a vast open-air museum and the largest ancient religious site in the world. It is probably the second most visited historical site in Egypt, second only to the Giza Pyramids near Cairo. It consists of four main parts (precincts) of which only one is accessible for tourists and the general public. This is the Precinct of Amun-Re, and this it is also the main part of the complex and by far the largest part. The term Karnak is often understood as being the Precinct of Amun-Re only, as this is the only part most visitors normally see. The three other parts, the Precinct of Montu, the Precinct of Mut and the dismantled Temple of Amenhotep IV, are closed to the public. There also are a few smaller temples and sanctuaries located outside the enclosing walls of the four main parts, as well as several avenues of human and ram-headed sphinxes connecting the Precinct of Mut, the Precinct of Amon-Re, and Luxor Temple.

The key difference between Karnak and most of the other temples and sites in Egypt is the length of time over which it was developed and used. Construction work began in the 16th century BC. Approximately thirty pharaohs contributed to the buildings, enabling it to reach a size, complexity, and diversity not seen elsewhere. Few of the individual features of Karnak are unique, but the size and number of features are overwhelming. Construction of temples started in the Middle Kingdom and continued through to Ptolemaic times.

History

The history of the Karnak complex is largely the history of Thebes. The city does not appear to have been of any significance before the Eleventh Dynasty, and any temple building here would have been relatively small and unimportant, with any shrines being dedicated to the early god of Thebes, Montu. The earliest artifact found in the area of the temple is a small, eight-side from the Eleventh Dynasty, which mentions Amun-Re.

Major construction work in the Precinct of Amun-Re took place during the Eighteenth dynasty. Thutmose I erected an enclosure wall connecting the Fourth and Fifth pylons, which comprise the earliest part of the temple still standing in situ. Construction of the Hypostyle Hall may have also began during the eighteenth dynasty, though most building was undertaken under Seti I and Ramesses II. Merenptah commemorated his victories over the Sea Peoples on the walls of the Cachette Court, the start of the processional route to the Luxor Temple.

The last major change to Precinct of Amun-Re's layout was the addition of the first pylon and the massive enclosure walls that surround the whole Precinct, both constructed by Nectanebo I.

In 323 AD, Constantine the Great recognised the Christian religion, and in 356 ordered the closing of pagan temples throughout the empire. Karnak was by this time mostly abandoned, and Christian churches were founded amongst the ruins, the most famous example of this is the reuse of the Festival Hall of Thutmose III's central hall, were painted decorations of saints and Coptic inscriptions can still be seen.

European rediscovering

Thebes’ exact placement was unknown in medieval Europe, though both Herodotus and Strabo give the exact location of Thebes and how long up the Nile one must travel to reach it. Maps of Egypt, based on the 2nd century Claudius Ptolemaeus' mammoth work Geographia, have been circling in Europe since the late 14th century, all of them showing Thebes’ (Diospolis) location. Despite this, several European authors of the 15th and 16th century who visited only Lower Egypt and published their travel accounts, like Joos van Ghistele or Andre Thevet, put Thebes in or close to Memphis.

The Karnak temple complex is first described by an unknown Venetian in 1589, though his account relates no name for the complex. This account, housed in the Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale di Firenze, is the first known European mention since ancient Greek and Roman writers of a whole range of monuments in Upper Egypt and Nubian, including Karnak, Luxor temple, Colossi of Memnon, Esna, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Philae and others.

Karnak ("Carnac") as a village name, and name of the complex, is first attested in 1668, when two capuchin missionary brothers Protais and Charles François d'Orléans travelled though the area. Protais’ writing about their travel was published by Melchisédech Thévenot (Relations de divers voyages curieux, 1670s-1696 editions) and Johann Michael Vansleb (The Present State of Egypt, 1678).

The first drawing of Karnak is found in Paul Lucas' travel account of 1704, (Voyage du Sieur paul Lucas au Levant). It is rather inaccurate, and can be quite confusing to modern eyes. Lucas travelled in Egypt during 1699-1703. The drawing shows a mixture of the Precinct of Amun-Re and the Precinct of Montu, based on a complex confined by the tree huge Ptolemaic gateways of Ptolemy III Euergetes / Ptolemy IV Philopator, and the massive 113m long, 43m high and 15m thick, first Pylon of the Precinct of Amun-Re.

Karnak was visited and described in succession by Claude Sicard and his travel companion Pierre Laurent Pincia (1718 and 1720-21), Granger (1731), Frederick Louis Norden (1737-38), Richard Pococke (1738), James Bruce (1769), Charles-Nicolas-Sigisbert Sonnini de Manoncourt (1777), William George Browne (1792-93), and finally by a number of scientists of the Napoleon expedition, including Vivant Denon, during 1798-1799. Claude-Etienne Savary describes the complex rather detailed in his work of 1785; especially in light that it is a fictional account of a pretended journey to Upper Egypt, composed out of information from other travellers. Savary did visit Lower Egypt in 1777-78, and published a work about that too.

Main parts

Precinct of Amun-Re:

This is the largest of the precincts of the temple complex, and is dedicated to Amun-Re, the chief god of the Theban Triad.

Precinct of Montu:

Dedicated to the son of Amun-Re and Mut, Montu, the war-god of the Theban Triad. It is located to the north of the Amun-Re complex, and is much smaller in size. It is not open to the public.

Precinct of Mut:

Located to the south of the Amen-Re complex, this precinct was dedicated to the mother goddess, of the Theban Triad, Mut. It has several smaller temples associated with it, and has its own sacred lake. It has been ravaged, many portions having been used in other structures. It is not open to the public.

Temple of Amenhotep IV :

The temple that Akhenaten (Amenhotep IV) constructed on site was located to the east of the main complex, outside the walls of the Amun-Re precinct. It was destroyed after the death of its builder, and its full extent and lay-out is currently unknown.

Luxor Temple

Description:

Access to the temple was – and still is, for the thousands of tourists who flock there every day – from the north, where a causeway lined by sphinxes once led all the way to Ipet Sut in modern Al-Karnak. This road was a later addition, dating from the time of Nectanebo I in the 30th Dynasty.

The temple properly begins with the 24 metre (79 ft) high First Pylon, built by Ramesses II. The pylon was decorated with scenes of Ramesses's military triumphs (particularly the Battle of Kadesh); later pharaohs, particularly those of the Nubian 25th dynasty, also recorded their victories there. This main entrance to the temple complex was originally flanked by six colossal statues of Ramesses – four seated, and two standing – but only two (both seated) have survived. Modern visitors can also see a 25 metre (82 ft) tall pink granite obelisk: it is one of a matching pair. The other was taken to Paris in 1835 where it now stands in the centre of the Place de la Concorde.

The pylon gateway leads into a peristyle courtyard, also built by Ramesses II. This area, and the pylon, were built at an oblique angle to the rest of the temple, presumably to accommodate the three pre-existing barque shrines located in the northwest corner. It is atop the columns of this courtyard that the Abu Haggag mosque was built: on the eastern side, a doorway leads surrealistically out into thin air some 8 metres (26 ft) above the ground.

After the peristyle courtyard comes the processional colonnade built by Amenhotep III – a 100 metre (328 ft) corridor lined by 14 papyrus-capital columns. Friezes on the wall describe the stages in the Opet Festival, from sacrifices at Karnak at the top left, through Ammon's arrival at Luxor at the end of that wall, and concluding with his return on the opposite side. The decorations were put in place by Tutankhamun: the boy pharaoh is depicted, but his names have been replaced with those of Horemheb.

Beyond the colonnade is a peristyle courtyard, which also dates back to Amenhotep's original construction. The best preserved columns are on the eastern side, where some traces of original colour can be seen. The southern side of this courtyard is made up of a 32-column hypostyle court that leads into the inner sanctums of the temple.

These begin with a dark antechamber. Of particular interest here are the Roman stuccoes that can still be seen atop the Egyptian carvings below; in Roman times this area served as a chapel, where local Christians were offered a final opportunity to renounce their faith and embrace the state religion. Moving further in stands a Barque Shrine for use by Amun, built by Alexander, with the final area being the private quarters of the gods and the Birth Shrine of Amenhotep III (his divine origin is depicted in careful, touching detail on the walls).

A cache of 26 New Kingdom statues was found under the floor in the inner sanctum area in 1989 – hidden away by pious priests, presumably, at some moment of internal upheaval or invasion. These splendid pieces are now on display at the nearby Luxor Museum.

Luxor museum

One of the best displays of antiquities in Egypt is located at the Luxor Museum opened in 1975. Housed within a modern building, the collection is limited in the number of items, but they are beautifully displayed.

The admission price is high, but it is well worth the visit. Visiting hours can be somewhat restricted, so find out upon arrival in Luxor.

Upon entering the museum, there is a small giftshop on the right. Once inside the main museum area, two of the first items that catch one's attention are an enormous red granite head of Amenhotep III and the cow-goddess head from the tomb of Tutankhamun.

Spaced out around the ground floor are masterpieces of sculpture including a calcite double statue of the crocodile god Sobek and the 18th Dynasty pharaoh Amenhotep III (below right). It was discovered at the bottom of a water-filled shaft in 1967.

A ramp leads upstairs to more marvellous antiquities, including some items from Tutankhamun's tomb suc as boats, sandles and arrows.

One of the major items of the whole museum is located upstairs - a reassembled wall of 283 painted sandstone blocks from a wall in the dismantled temple built at Karnak for Amenhotep IV (the heretic king Akhenaten of the 18th Dynasty).

There are numerous other antiquities of interest including a couple of very nice coffins. The museum also houses items from periods after the demise of pharaonic Egypt.

On returning to the ground floor, there is a gallery on the left (outbound)where there is a wonderful collection stone sculptures found in 1989 under one of the courtyards within Luxor Temple.

The museum makes a great afternoon or evening stop for an hour or two after a morning over on the West Bank. Once again, check the hours as they can vary with the season.

Mummification Museum

Located in the Egyptian city of Luxor. It stands on the corniche, in front of the Mina Palace Hotel, to the north of Luxor Temple, overlooking the River Nile.

The museum is intended to provide visitors with an understanding of the ancient art of mummification. The Ancient Egyptians applied embalming techniques to many species, not only to dead humans. Mummies of cats, fish and crocodiles are on display in this unique museum, where one can also get an idea of the tools used.

The story of this museum began when the Egyptian president decreed that the responsibility of the former visitor centre building was to transferred from the tourism ministry to that of culture (and, specifically, the Supreme Council of Antiquities). It was opened by President Hosni Mubarak in 1997.

The museum, located in the former visitor center, covers an area of 2035 m² and contains the following elements:

* Hall of artefacts

* Lecture hall

* Video room

* Cafeteria

The hall of artefacts is divided into two parts, the first one is ascended corridor through which the visitor could have a look on ten tablets were drawn from the papyri of Ani and Hu-nefer that displayed in the British Museum in London. Most of these tablets throw lights on the funeral journey from death to burial. The second part of the museum began from the end of the corridor and the visitor could see more than sixty pieces, which are displayed in 19 well-advanced cases.

In those 19 display cases, the artefacts are concentrated on eleven topics:

* Gods of ancient Egypt

* Embalming materials

* Organic materials

* Embalming fluid

* Tools of mummification

* Canopic jars

* Ushabtis

* Amulets

* Coffin of Padiamun

* Mummy of Masaherta

* Mummified animals

Template of Philae

Situation:

Philae is mentioned by numerous ancient writers, including Strabo.Philae proper, although the smaller island, is, from the numerous and picturesque ruins formerly there, the more interesting of the two. Prior to the inundation, it was not more than 1250 English feet, or rather less than a quarter of a mile, long, and about 400 feet broad. It is composed of Syenite stone: its sides are steep and perhaps escarped by the hand of man, and on their summits was built a lofty wall encompassing the island.

For Philae, being accounted one of the burying-places of Osiris, was held in high reverence both by the Egyptians to the north and the Ethiopians (Aethopians in Greek) to the south, and it was deemed profane for any but priests to dwell therein, and was accordingly sequestered and denominated the unapproachable . It was reported too that neither birds flew over it nor fish approached its shores.These indeed were the traditions of a remote period; since in the time of the Macedonian kings of Egypt, Philae was so much resorted to, partly by pilgrims to the tomb of Osiris, partly by persons on secular errands, that the priests petitioned Ptolemy Physcon (170-117 BC) to prohibit public functionaries at least from coming thither and living at their expense. The obelisk on which this petition was engraved was brought into England by Mr. Bankes, and its hieroglyphics, compared with those of the Rosetta stone, threw great light upon the Egyptian phonetic alphabet.

The islands of Philae were not, however, merely sacerdotal abodes; they were the centres of commerce also between Meroë and Memphis. For the rapids of the cataracts were at most seasons impracticable, and the commodities exchanged between Egypt and Ethiopia were reciprocally landed and re-embarked at Syene and Philae.

The neighbouring granite-quarries attracted hither also a numerous population of miners and stonemasons; and, for the convenience of this traffic, a gallery or road was formed in the rocks along the east bank of the Nile, portions of which are still extant.

Philae also was remarkable for the singular effects of light and shade resulting from its position near the Tropic of Cancer. As the sun approached its northern limit the shadows from the projecting cornices and mouldings of the temples sink lower and lower down the plain surfaces of the walls, until, the sun having reached its highest altitude, the vertical walls are overspread with dark shadows, forming a striking contrast with the fierce light which embathes all surrounding objects.

Construction:

The most conspicuous feature of both islands was their architectural wealth. Monuments of very various eras, extending from the Pharaohs to the Caesars, occupy nearly their whole area. The principal structures, however, lay at the south end of the smaller island.

The most ancient were the remains of a temple for Hathor built in the reign of Nectanebo I during 380-362 BCE, was approached from the river through a double colonnade. Nekhtnebef is his Homen and he became the founding pharaoh of the thirtieth and last dynasty of native rulers when he deposed and killed Nefaarud II. Hathor is named alternatively, Athor, and was associated with their goddess, Aphrodite, by the Greeks.

For the most part, the other ruins date from the Ptolemaic times, more especially with the reigns of Ptolemy Philadelphus, Ptolemy Epiphanes, and Ptolemy Philometor (282-145 BC), with many traces of Roman work in Philae dedicated to Ammon-Osiris.

In front of the propyla were two colossal lions in granite, behind which stood a pair of obelisks, each 44 feet high. The propyla were pyramidal in form and colossal in dimensions. One stood between the dromos and pronaos, another between the pronaos and the portico, while a smaller one led into the sekos or adytum. At each corner of the adyturn stood a monolithal shrine, the cage of a sacred hawk. Of these shrines one is now in the Louvre, the other in the Museum at Florence.

Beyond the entrance into the principal court are small temples or rather chapels, one of which, dedicated to Hathor (Athor), is covered with sculptures representing the birth of Ptolemy Philometor, under the figure of the god Horus. The story of Osiris is everywhere represented on the walls of this temple, and two of its inner chambers are particularly rich in symbolic imagery. Upon the two great propyla are Greek inscriptions intersected and partially destroyed by Egyptian figures cut across them.

The inscriptions belong to the Macedonian era, and are of earlier date than the sculptures, which were probably inserted during that interval of renaissance for the native religion which followed the extinction of the Greek dynasty in Egypt in 30 BC by the Romans.

The monuments in both islands indeed attested, beyond any others in the Nile-valley, the survival of pure Egyptian art centuries after the last of the Pharaohs had ceased to reign. Great pains have been taken to mutilate the sculptures of this temple. The work of demolition is attributable, in the first instance, to the zeal of the early Christians, and afterward, to the policy of the Iconoclasts, who curried favour for themselves with the Byzantine court by the destruction of heathen images as well as Christian ones.

The soil of Philae had been prepared carefully for the reception of its buildings–being levelled where it was uneven, and supported by masonry where it was crumbling or insecure. For example, the western wall of the Great Temple, and the corresponding wall of the dromos, were supported by very strong foundations, built below the pre-inundation level of the water, and rested on the granite which in this region forms the bed of the Nile. Here and there steps were hewn out from the wall to facilitate the communication between the temple and the river.

At the southern extremity of the dromos of the Great Temple was a smaller temple, apparently dedicated to Isis; at least the few columns that remained of it are surmounted with the head of that goddess. Its portico consisted of twelve columns, four in front and three deep. Their capitals represented various forms and combinations of the palm branch, the dhoum-leaf, and the lotus-flower. These, as well as the sculptures on the columns, the ceilings, and the walls

were painted with the most vivid colors, which, owing to the dryness of the climate, have lost little of their original brilliance.

History:

Pharaonic era

The ancient Egyptian name of the smaller island is Philak, or boundary. As their southern frontier, the Pharaohs of Egypt kept there a strong garrison, and, for the same reason, it was a barrack also for Macedonian and Roman soldiers in their turn. The first temple structure, which was built by native pharaohs of the thirtieth dynasty, was the one for Hathor.

Greco-Roman era

The island temple construction at Philae was continued over a three-century period by the Greek Ptolemaic dynasty and the rulers of the Roman Principate. The principal deity of the temple complex was Isis, but other temples and shrines were dedicated to her son Horus and the goddess Hathor. In Ptolemaic times Hathor was associated with Isis, who was in turn associated with the Greek goddess Aphrodite. For centuries the temple complex was the holiest site for Isis worshippers. The temple was closed down officially in the 6th century A.D. by the Byzantine emperor, Justinian. It was the last pagan temple to exist in the Mediterranean world (although a Roman temple to Isis remained in England). Philae was a seat of the Christian religion as well as of the ancient Egyptian faith. Ruins of a Christian church were still discovered, and more than one adytum bore traces of having been made to serve at different eras the purposes of a chapel of Osiris and of Christ. The Philae temple was converted into a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, until that was closed by Muslim invaders in the 7th century.

1800s

The island of Philae attracted much attention in the nineteenth century. In the 1820s, Joseph Bonomi the Younger, a British Egyptologist and museum curator visited the island. So did Amelia Edwards, a British novelist in 1873–1874|4.

The approach by water is quite the most beautiful. Seen from the level of a small boat, the island, with its palms, its colonnades, its pylons, seems to rise out of the river like a mirage. Piled rocks frame it on either side, and the purple mountains close up the distance. As the boat glides nearer between glistening boulders, those sculptured towers rise higher and even higher against the sky. They show no sign of ruin or age. All looks solid, stately, perfect. One forgets for the moment that anything is changed. If a sound of antique chanting were to be borne along the quiet air–if a procession of white-robed priests bearing aloft the veiled ark of the God, were to come sweeping round between the palms and pylons–we should not think it strange.

These visits were only a sampling of the great interest that Victorian-era Britain had for Egypt. Soon, tourism to Philae became common.

1900s

Aswan Low Dam

In 1902, the Aswan Low Dam was completed on the Nile River by the British. This threatened many ancient landmarks, including the temple complex of Philae, with being submerged. The dam was heightened twice, from 1907–12 and from 1929–34, and the island of Philae was nearly always flooded. In fact, the complex was not underwater only when the dam's sluices were open, from July to October.

It was postulated that the temples be relocated, piece by piece, to nearby islands, such as Bigeh or Elephantine. However, the temples' foundations and other architectural supporting structures were strengthened instead. Although the buildings were physically secure, the island's attractive vegetation and the colors of the temples' reliefs were washed away. Also, the bricks of the Philae temples soon became encrusted with silt and other debris carried by the Nile.

Rescue project

By 1960, UNESCO had decided to move many of the endangered sites along to Nile to safer ground. Philae's temple complex was moved, piece by piece, to Agilkai, 550 meters away, where it was reassembled and remains today. That project lasted from 1977 to 1980.

Nearby

Prior to the inundation, a little west of Philae lay a larger island, anciently called Snem or Senmut, but now Beghé. It is very precipitous, and from its most elevated peak affords a fine view of the Nile, from its smooth surface south of the islands to its plunge over the shelves of rock that form the First Cataract. Philae, Beghé, and another lesser island divided the river into four principal streams, and north of them it took a rapid turn to the west and then to the north, where the cataract begins.

Beghé, like Philae, was a holy island; its and rocks are inscribed with the names and titles of Amenhotep III (Amunoph III), Rameses the Great, Psammetichus, Apries, and Amasis, together with memorials of the later Macedonian and Roman rulers of Egypt. Its principal ruins consisted of the propylon and two columns of a temple, which was apparently of small dimensions, but of elegant proportions. Near them were the fragments of two colossal granite statues and also an excellent piece of masonry of much later date, having the aspect of an arch belonging to some Greek church or Saracen mosque.

Hurghada red sea best resorts

An Egyptian city and a tourist center on the Red Sea, Hurghada stretches for about 36 km along the seashore, and it does not reach far into the surrounding desert. The resort is a destination for Egyptian tourists from Cairo, the Delta and Upper Egypt, as well as package holiday tourists from Europe, notably Russians, Czechs and Germans. Until a few years ago it was a small fishing village. Today Hurghada counts 248,000 inhabitants and is divided into three parts: Downtown (El Dahar) is the old part; Sekalla is the modern part, and El Korra Road is the most modern part. Sakkala is the relatively modest hotel quarter. Dahar is where the town's largest bazaar, the post office and the long-distance bus station are situated.

The city is served by the Hurghada International Airport with scheduled passenger traffic to and from Cairo and direct connections with several cities in Europe. The airport has undergone massive renovations to accommodate rising traffic. Hurghada is known for its watersports activities, nightlife and warm weather. Daily high temperature hovers round 30 degrees Celsius most of the year. Numerous Europeans spend their Christmas and New Year holidays in Hurghada, primarily Germans and Italians, Hurghada has become an international center for aquatic sports like windsurfing, kiting, sailing, deep-sea fishing, swimming, and above all snorkeling and diving. The underwater gardens offshore are considered some of the finest in the world. The warm waters here are ideal for many varieties of fish and coral, which may also be observed from a glass bottom boat.

The city provides a gateway to diving sites throughout the Red Sea, owing to its central location. In addition, Hurghada is known for providing access to many uninhabited offshore reefs and islands, Projects under construction

Gamsha Bay

Gamsha Bay will be the region’s largest township, located north of Hurghada; Gamsha Bay will offer its residents a wide array of housing options, entertainment, and recreational amenities, including an extreme sports adventure theme park.

Gamsha Bay will be divided into 9 distinct zones – Gamsha Marina, Marina Park, Coral Golf Course, Sea View Crescent, Creek Retreat, Gamsha Bay, Peninsula Luxury Villas, Downtown Gamsha and Extreme Sports World Theme Park. It will be built in five phases over 10 years, with the initial components of the first phase completed within the next five years.

Serrenia

Created by British architects Foster and Partners, Serrenia will be a secure, luxurious, sustainable community. It will feature palace-like residences, private villas, as well as apartments. At its heart will be an artificial spa: water in the desert. There will also be a Children’s Club and a Beach Club, as well as a 7-star hotel. There will be an 18-hole championship golf course, featuring an iconic clubhouse and a Golf Academy. The Marina Hub will contain exclusive shops, as well as a private marina. Serrenia will have its own private beach at Sahl Hasheesh.

Resorts near Hurghada

Al Quseir

one of the Egyptian gateways, and one of the oldest cities on the western coast of the Red Sea. In the past it was known by various names, such as Thagho in the pharonic period, Licos Limen (the white port) in the ptolemaic period, and Portus Albus in the Roman period. In the Islamic period it was given the name Al Quseir, which means "a small palace or fortress".

Located between Hurghada and Marsa Alam, Quseir used to be an important port. Many people traveled from there to the land of Punt to buy ivory, leather and incense. During the Ottoman and the Islamic periods, Egyptians and Muslims from North Africa traveled from Quesir as pilgrims to Mecca. It was also the only port importing coffee from Yemen. During the French occupation of Egypt, Quseir was the arrival point for Arabs and Muslims from Hegaz coming to fight beside the Mamalic against the French army. The most important sites in Quseir are the fort and the water reservoir. The water reservoir was Quseir's only source of drinking water 100 years ago.

Al Quseir Al Kadima is another important site as well. It was the old Roman port where hundreds of amphora and old pottery artifacts were found. Even the police station is located at a historical site. There are now many bazaars here, as well as cafes, coffee shops and restaurants offering sea food. There are several 300-year-old buildings here: the Ottoman fort and the old mosques Al Farran, Al Qenawi and Al Senousi.

Al Quseir is known for diving, with many miles of unspoiled coral reef. Most hotels have dive centres, and there are some downtown, as well. Safaris are popular here, either by quad bike or jeep, including trips into the desert and visits to a Bedouin village, as is camel-riding.

Sharm El Naga

A village, around 40 km (25 mi) south of Hurghada. Its beach contains a beautiful reef cliff.

El Gouna

A privately-owned luxury hotel town, about 25 km north of Hurghada. Quiet and clean, the town consists of several islands separated by channels and connected by bridges. Besides 14 hotels and 2 marinas, there are also 300 private villas and apartments, and some 500 more are under construction.It is promoted by some as Egypt's Venice. It is built on 10 km of beachfront and has unique and diverse architecture.

El Gouna provides diving and watersports centres, horse stables, gokarting, shopping arcades, bazaars, a wide selection of restaurants and bars, night clubs, an internet cafe, an automated teller machine (ATM), a pharmacy, the El Gouna international school, a nursery, a private hospital, a marina, an airport, the only casino on the Red Sea coast, a private radio station, a post office, a real estate office and an 18-hole golf course designed by Gene Bates with a unique aqua driving range.

Al-Mahmya

A tourist beachfront camp on the protected Giftun island, 45 minutes by boat from Hurghada.

Soma Bay

A tourist resort situated 45 km (28 mi) south of Hurghada, with various hotels including La Residence des Cascades, Inter-Continental, Robinson Club and Sheraton (Kempinski - opening August 2008.

Sahl Hasheesh

Sahl Hasheesh is a community resort developed seaside by The Egyptian Resorts Company (ERC). It is a long-term project under development, designed to meet social and environmental objectives.

Makadi Bay

A beachside resort 35 km (22 mi) south of Hurghada. Makadi Bay provides scuba diving and snorkeling. Features one of the world's most impressive swimming pools at Le Meridien Hurghada: Makadi Bay, Egypt.

Sharm Elshiekh now and before

Sharm el-Sheikh is on a promontory overlooking the Straits of Tiran at the mouth of the Gulf of Aqaba. Its strategic importance led to its transformation from a fishing village into a major port and naval base for the Egyptian Navy. It was captured by Israel during the Sinai conflict of 1956 and restored to Egypt in 1957. A United Nations peacekeeping force was subsequently stationed there until the 1967 Six-Day War when it was recaptured by Israel.

Sharm el-Sheikh remained under Israeli control until the Sinai peninsula was returned to Egypt in 1982 after the Israel-Egypt Peace Treaty of 1979. An Israeli Settlement had been created there in the 1970s under the name "Ophira" derived from Biblical Ophir. Israeli settlers there had the name of being easy-going, bohemian types and - unlike settlers elsewhere - offered no resistance when evacuated in 1982. Also, unlike the Israeli settlements in North Sinai which were razed to the ground upon evacuation by order of then Defence Minister Ariel Sharon, the Israeli settlement at Sharm el-Sheikh was handed intact to the Egyptians, and some of the buildings erected at the time are still in evidence.

A hierarchical planning approach was adopted for the Gulf of Aqaba, whereby their components were evaluated and subdivided into zones, cities and centers. In accordance with this approach, the Gulf of Aqaba zone was subdivided into four cities: Taba, Nuweiba, Dahab and Sharm El-Sheikh. Sharm El-Sheikh city has been subdivided into five homogeneous centers namely: Nabq, Ras Nusrani, Naama Bay, Umm Sid and Sharm El Maya. Sharm El-Sheikh city together with Naama Bay, Hay el Nour, Hadaba, Rowaysat, Montazah and Shark’s Bay form a metropolitan area.

The land plan shows that the total area of Sharm El-Sheikh is expected to be about 42 km², in the year 2017. This area is designed to include:

* Tourism resorts 8.4%

* Tourism Facilities 40.9%

* Green & Open areas 12.3%

* Social Services 9.9%

* Roads 12.2%

* Urban Housing 13.7%

* Bedouin Housing 1.6%

* Hand crafts & small industries 1.0%

Before 1967, Sharm el-Sheikh was little more than an occasional base of operations for local fishermen; the nearest permanent settlement was in Nabk, north of Ras el-Nasrani ("The Tiran Straits"). Commercial development of the area began during the Israeli presence in the area. The Israelis built the town of Ofira overlooking Sharm el-Maya Bay, and the Nesima area, and opened the first tourist-oriented establishments in the area six kilometers north at Naama Bay. These included a marina hotel on the southern side of the bay, a nature field school on the northern side, diving clubs, a now well-known promenade, and the Naama Bay Hotel.

After the Sinai was restored to Egypt in 1982, the Egyptian government embarked on an initiative to encourage continued development of the city. Foreign investors - some of whom had discovered the potential of the locality during the Israeli occupation - contributed to a spate of building projects. Environmental zoning laws currently limit the height of buildings in Sharm el-Sheikh so as to avoid obscuring the natural beauty of the surroundings.

The city has played host to a number of important Middle Eastern peace conferences, including the September 4, 1999 agreement to restore Palestinian self-rule over the Gaza Strip. A second summit was held at Sharm on October 17, 2000 following the outbreak of the second Palestinian intifada, but it failed to end the violence. A summit was held on August 3, 2005 in this city on developments in the Arab world such as the situation in Iraq and the Arab-Israeli conflict.

Average temperatures during the winter months (November to March) range from 15 to 35 degrees Celsius (59-95°F) and during the summer months (April to October) from 20 to 45 degrees Celsius (68-113°F). The temperature of the Red Sea in this region ranges from 21 to 28 degrees Celsius (70-84°F) over the course of the year.

On July 23, 2005, the city was struck by the 2005 Sharm el-Sheikh attacks. In total, 88 people were killed, including foreign tourists. The attacks are believed to have been carried out by a militant Wahabbi group.

Sharm el-Sheikh was formerly a port, but commercial shipping has been greatly reduced as the result of strict environmental laws introduced in the 1990s. Until 1982, there was only a military port in Sharm el-Sheikh, on the northern part of Marsa Bareka. The civilian port development started in the mid 1980s when the Sharem-al-Maya bay became the city's main yacht and service port.

Sharm el-Sheikh's major industry is foreign and domestic tourism, owing to its dramatic landscape, year-round dry and temperate climate and long stretches of natural beaches. Its waters are clear and calm for most of the year and have become popular for various watersports, particularly recreational scuba diving and snorkelling which some consider to be among the best in the world. Coral reefs, under water and marine life, unmatched anywhere in the world, offer a spectacular and dazzling time for divers. There is wide room for scientific tourism with diversity in marine life species; 250 different coral reefs and 1000 species of fish.

These natural resources, together with its proximity to European tourism markets, have stimulated the rapid growth of tourism that the region is currently experiencing. Guest nights also increased in that period of time from 16 thousands to 5.1 million. The total number of resorts increased from 3 in 1982 to 91 in 2000. Highly reputable management companies have been attracted to invest in this city such as Hyatt Regency, Accor, Marriott, Le Méridien, Four Seasons, Ritz-Carlton, and others, with categories from three to five stars. Franchises like Hard Rock Cafe, McDonalds and Kentucky Fried Chicken can be found in Sharm el-Sheikh.

Sharm is also the home of a state of the art congress center, where many political meetings have been held of international tenure. Peace conferences, ministerial meetings, world bank meetings, Arab league conferences for mentioning a few. It is rightly located along peace road and have been lately re-branded to be a Maritim outlet. The Maritim Sharm el Sheikh International Congress Centre can host events and congresses for up to 4,700 participants.

The night life of Sharm El-Sheikh is also quite attractive. In 2005, Little Buddha, a sushi bar, nightclub, and bar, took the title of having the longest continuous bar in the Middle East. Other popular bars include: Camel Bar, The Tavern, Pirate's Bar, Movenpick Beach, and The Mexican. If dancing is appealing to you, then Sharm has much to offer. Clubs such as world renowned Pacha throw parties almost every night of the year. These nightclubs and restaurants contribute greatly to the lifestyle led by Sharm el-Sheikh's visitors each year.

The colorful handicraft stands of the local Bedouin culture are a popular attraction. Ras Mohammed, at the southern-most tip of the peninsula, has been designated a national park, serving to protect the area's wildlife as well as its natural landscape, shoreline and coral reef. A number of international hotels and noted restaurants are clustered around the centre of Sharm, known as Naama Bay, with golf courses and other leisure facilities further up the coast.

Sharm's marina has been redeveloped for private yachts and sailboats, with a passenger terminal for cruise ships and scheduled ferry service to Hurghada and Aqaba.

Sharm el-Sheikh International Airport is the second busiest airport in Egypt after Cairo International Airport and is well served predominantly by charter flights to mainland Europe and the United Kingdom, as well as some domestic and international scheduled services. A second terminal was opened in 2007, giving the airport a much-needed capacity boost.

Sharm el-Sheikh has also become a favourite spot for Scuba divers from around the world. Being situated near to the Red Sea, it provides some of the most stunning underwater scenery and warm water making this an ideal place to dive. Visitors to Sharm el-Sheikh can experience a variety of water and activities. Beach seekers find many activities such as diving, snorkeling, wind surfing, para-sailing, boating, and canoeing.

Ras Mohammed is the National Park of South Sinai and located on the very tip of the Sinai Peninsula; it probably represents some of the most famous dive sites in the Red Sea with 800-metre (2,600 ft) deep reef walls and pounding current and coral gardens.

The Sharm el-Sheikh Hyperbaric Medical Center was founded in 1993 with a grant from USAID by the Egyptian Ministry of Tourism, represented by Dr Adel Taher to assist with diving related illnesses and complete the area's reputation as a full-service dive destination.

Naama Bay

Naama Bay is the central resort area of Sharm el Sheikh and comprises a stylish strip of hotels, with an attractive pedestrian promenade along the sandy beachfront. At the south-western corner of Naama Bay are shops, restaurants, small hotels and a wide choice of dive centres. Naama Bay is 7 km from Sharm El Sheikh Airport. It comprises a number of international clubs, dinners and night attractions like Pacha, Buddah Bar, Hard Rock Café…etc

Properties in Naama Bay are famous for their high rental yields. A number of exclusive high quality compounds; stretched across the street (Peace Road: Sharm’s main road) from the main shopping area and within a number of luxury hotels; offer a range of 1, 2 and 3BR apartments for short term or long term lease. Due to the surrounding facilities and location is it the most expensive area yet maintains a high demand. Available Services: Supermarkets Malls Cafés Pharmacies Hotels Banks Schools Church Mosque Public transportation

Hay el Nour

The first residential area in Sharm El Sheikh and a nature extension of Naama Bay residential area is located about 2.5 km away from Naama Bay with both old and new buildings. Hay el Nour has been recently expanded to include the brand new extension located next to the largest church in Sharm. Although a residential area, a lot of businesses are starting to open up there, as well as new malls that offer office space. Available Services include: Malls, Pharmacies, Nurseries & Schools, and Public Transportation. There is also a El Sama-eyeen (The Heavenly) Cathedral of the Coptic Orthodox Church

Hadaba

Hadaba is a quiet, sun soaked resort on the outskirts of Sharm el Sheikh. Hadaba’s wide range of hotels and holiday villas are situated in beautiful locations on the Ras Om Sid promontory. Staying at Hadaba, holiday residents are a five minute taxi or bus ride to Naama Bay, the bustling heart of beach and dive hotspot Sharm el Sheikh.

Hadaba is not only an appealing relaxed destination for tourists, but also famous with Sharm’s prime residential area the Marine Club Villas. Buildings are 2 or 3 storey individually owned villas, studios and apartments by various nationalities and mostly let on long term agreements for residents in Sharm. Prices in Hadaba are affordable yet some properties are more exclusive with outstanding design and breathtaking sea views. Most businesses outside the hotels and diving fields are located in Hadaba

This neighbourhood is completely self-sufficient and also has public transportation, which makes it very easy to move around. Available Services: Supermarkets Malls Cafés Pharmacies Hotels Banks Nurseries & Schools Church Mosque Public transportation

Shark’s Bay (also known as the White Night)

Shark's Bay is an elite touristic area, with a wonderful combination of sea, gulf, and mountain scenery. It encompasses a number of high end 5star hotels and resorts with a few residential properties that have marvellous views and beach access. The area is originally very famous as a diving destination. Available services: Supermarkets Pharmacies Hotels

Montazah

One of the upscale neighbourhoods in Sharm, Montaza consists of residential compounds that include everything from studios to big villas with individual gardens overlooking Tiran Island. Located 10 km away from Naama Bay and close to the airport and the 5 stars hotels. Properties in this area are luxurious secluded privately owned plots with apartments and villas that have beach access unlike other neighbourhoods in Shark El Sheikh, therefore prices tend to be more expensive. Available services: Supermarkets Pharmacies Hotels

Rowaysat

This charming area used to be a Bedouin settlement, but is gradually becoming a residential neighbourhood. Located on the mountain side about 7 km away from Naama Bay, houses there are usually quite spacious with a garden and a beautiful view complete with camels and sheep surrounding them, adding a touch of authenticity to the neighbourhood. It is also very famous for the workshops and craftsmanship available for almost any need.

Shopping

There are two types of shopping options in the Sinai and Red Sea area and visitors can enjoy each of them for the distinctly different opportunities which they present. The first type of shopping is the kind of mall shopping which visitors frequently engage in during vacation. The other type of shopping for visitors to enjoy in the area is the traditional market shopping at the local bazaars or souks. This shopping takes places with local shopkeepers and is more than just a buying and spending experience.

Naama Bay Naama Bay, also down as the centre of Sharm El Sheikh, this place has an enormous variety of stores selling almost any product you are looking for. Not only that, Naama Bay has endless choices of restaurants and coffee shops that you can stop at for a break during your shopping escapade.

Old Market Once you step into the old market, all you will see is shop after shop after shop, narrow streets and alleyways with more and more shops, usually selling Sinai and Egypt related souvenirs. The Old Market is the cradle of the local fish stores, where you can indulge in a fish and seafood meal at its best, and in its simplest form.

Il Mercato The latest sensation in Sharm el Sheikh, Il Mercato has come to add pizzazz to Sinai, exclusively bringing in the biggest international brands of apparel, food chains, cafés and more. Located in Hadaba, Il Mercato is the open air version of Dubai’s Il Mercato, designed by the same architect. They also have special arrangements on Mondays and Fridays for a women’s day and children’s day consecutively.

Al Khan An outdoor shopping area, Al Khan is a long alleyway with two-storey high bungalows with hatched roofs lined up on both sides creating a nice exotic ambiance.

La Strada It is the new entertainment centre of Nabq, Sharm El Sheikh's new hot spot. With a number of international brands, coffee shops as well as business offices and an upcoming hypermarket across the street. Every Saturday entertainment and activities are arranged for children and families.

Red sea and Sinai

To anyone standing on its shore and gazing out across its heavenly waters, the Red Sea may seem to be a mislabeling. Its blueness is eternal and anything less red cannot be fantasized. The Red Sea, where the desert meets the ocean, is truly one of the planet’s most exotic and fascinating natural seascape environments. The Red Sea is located between Asia and Africa. At its most northerly point forms the Sinai Peninsula and stretches over 1000 miles south to join the Indian Ocean, between Ethiopia and Yemen. In the north and west are desert plains, while in the south a mountainous region (2642 meters high), which is part of the mountain range stretching from deep in Saudi Arabia, across the Sinai and then into Nubia of the African continent. The Red Sea holds beneath its crystal blue surface an oasis of living creatures, reefs, and coral formation. Its use as a highway between East and West has attracted man since the beginning of time.

The Red Sea was created by the movement of plates in the Earth’s surface about 30 million years ago. In that time, the Arab peninsula started to part from Africa along a thin break line which was filled by the ocean’s water. However, "Mother Nature" did not stop there. Twenty million years ago another geological movement started. The Arab peninsula which parted from Africa, started to move to the north. That movement struck resistance in Turkey and swung to the east, and another break line was formed. This one stretching all the way from the northern part of Israel, through the Jordan valley to the Dead Sea, and finally through the Gulf of Eilat to Ras Mohamad at the southern point of the Sinai. The young age of the Gulf of Eilat is what makes it so deep, 100 meters in Dahab and 1800 meters north of the Straits of Tiran. On the other hand, the old Gulf of Suez is relatively shallow, with a 85 meters maximum depth. The Red Sea is still widening at about one-half inch per year, the rift is the youngest region of continental breakup on the planet, allowing geologists to learn about processes that occurred in the Atlantic and Pacific oceans hundreds of millions of years earlier.

Water temperatures in the Red Sea remain unusually constant year round, averaging 22^ C in the summer. Low pressure systems develop in the Sahara Desert and draw hot dry east winds from Asia which cause the temperature to rise frequently along with sand storms. At the same time, lows develop over the Red Sea, bringing moist cold air from the south and creating clouds, haze, and more often rain. The northern land mass is the primary influence over temperature in the gulf, but this decreases to the south the closer you get to open sea. The open sea’s cooling effect creates an interesting temperature pattern: maximum summer temperatures are lower in the south while minimum temperatures are higher in the north with the opposite occurring during the winter. In any case, the coldest moth of the year is January and the warmest months are July and August. The Red Sea is notorious among seafarers for its high speed surface winds and aggressively short irregular motion. It may be calm on the inward shore, but journeys to exposed sites like The Brothers islands, a remote off-shore site east of El Quseir, can be perilous and boats have been seen literally to fall apart under the force of the journey.

Cargo vessels, oil tankers, fishing boats, and passenger liners all move their trade across this great waterway, but for many, the true enchantment of the Red Sea is hidden just below its surface. There are over 1000 species of invertebrates and around 200 recorded coral types to be found. Moreover, the Red Sea boasts over a thousand species of fish, more species than any other proportional body of water. Not surprisingly, therefore, the Red Sea is considered by many to offer the very best diving available in the marine world. The Red Sea attracts divers, photographers, marine scientists, and leisure seekers from all over the world, hoping to experience and explore the incalculable wonders of the colorful, abounding marine life and the Red Sea’s lavish coral reefs. In places, the exceptional living reef stretches way out to sea, forming a elaborate system of caves, lagoons, gardens, and plateaus. Some of these coral summits plunge dramatically thousands of feet to the ocean floor. The Red Sea is not all a delight however, as it has its troubles which you will have to stay away from. There is minimal danger from marine animals in the Red Sea, and with a little common sense, even these dangers can be eliminated. Some of the marine animals are dangerous to touch, others dangerous to eat, and some are dangerous to come face to face with. There are fire corals and stinging hydroids which can be extremely painful if accidentally touched as well.

Snorkeling is a popular way to view the edge of the reef, especially for those with limited confidence in their swimming ability. Sharks, manta rays, turtles, and eels will take pieces of bread from your hand, and brilliantly colored schools of fish team all around in bewildering color. However, most divers will tell you that there is nothing to beat the thrill of experiencing the depth of the reef and the abounding marine life to be found in the Red Sea. The lure of the reef is such that many novice divers become totally "hooked" and cannot imagine why they have never joined in the fun before. Furthermore, when asked to compare their local diving conditions with those in the Red Sea, they find it a "paradise" with clear visibility, little wave action, and warm temperatures all year long.

Fishing is an art which still preserves time-honored methods, mostly due to the difficulties imposed by the dangers of the reef. The hook-and-line method of fishing has been in use for more than four thousand years and is still going strong. Conservation of certain species of fish and the dangers of over-fishing are both important issues for the government. The fisherman land a total of 8,000 metric tons of fish per year, which, although eight times as much as the Sudan, is less than half Egypt’s total catch.

The water of the Red Sea is also a vital asset. Surrounding cities are totally dependent on it for household and industrial supplies, and tremendous desalination plants are in operation. These supply drinking water which has been purified to a high standard, as well as non-potable domestic water. Sea water is also used in large quantities by oil refineries and cement works situated along the coastline. The danger of pollution is always present in the Red Sea, particularly from oil spillage. A Royal Decree forbids the discharge of any pollutant substances, including oil, within 100 miles of the Saudi Arabian coastline.

Currently, the areas of the Eastern Desert and around the Red Sea have received a great deal of overdue attention. A joint expedition from the University of Delaware and Leiden University and Leiden University has been working at the ancient Red Sea port of Berinike. The past season the Delaware-Leiden team excavated in two areas, opened a total of seven trenches, and found four public buildings. One of the sites contained offering tables, an incense burner, a stela stand and an almost life-size bronze figure of a cloaked woman clasping a snake. Scraps of colorful textile from the Fourth and Fifth centuries A.D. have also been found. In addition, evidence of trade appears in the form of imported coconuts, pepper, and rice. So, while the edges of the Red Sea are being explored, the sea itself is being plunged in a survey of sunken wrecks. The Institute for Nautical Archaeology in Egypt, is continuing the underwater survey started last season, plotting the locations of shipwrecks along the Red Sea coast.

For swimmers, divers, traders, industrialists, fishermen, archaeologists, and tourists, the Red Sea has its own kind of incomparability. And even the leisured gazer, speculating the inaccessible blue/red abnormality, can be said to have been given something to think about. The underwater amazement of the Red Sea remains a living tapestry of resounding corals and exotic fish, waiting for you to discover its secrets.

Mount Mouses

Geography

Mount Musa is a 2285 m-high mountain in the Sinai region. It is next to Mount St. Catherine (at 2,629 m, the tallest peak on the Sinai peninsula). It is surrounded on all sides by higher peaks of the mountain range.

Geology

Mount Musa rocks were formed in the late stage of the Arabian-Nubian Shield's (ANS) evolution. Mount Musa displays a ring complex that consists of alkaline granites intruded into diverse rock types, including volcanics. The granites range in composition from syenogranite to alkali feldspar granite. The volcanic rocks are alkaline to peralkaline and they are represented by subaerial flows and eruptions and subvolcanic porphyry. Generally, the nature of the exposed rocks in Mount Musa indicates that they originated from different depths. (M. G. Shahien, Geol. Dept., Beni Suef, Egypt)

Monastery

The Monastery of St. Catherine is sited at the foot of the adjacent mountain - Mount Catherine - at an elevation of around 1200 m.

Religious Significance

According to Bedouin tradition, this is the mountain where God gave laws to the Israelites. However, the earliest Christian traditions place this event at the nearby Mount Serbal, and a monastery was founded at its base in the 4th century; it was only in the 6th century that the monastery moved to the foot of Mount Catherine, following the guidance of Josephus's earlier claim that Sinai was the highest mountain in the area. Jebel Musa, which is adjacent to Mount Catherine, was only equated with Sinai, by Christians, after the 15th century. Also, for Muslims, there is a chapter named after this mountain in the Quran, entitled, Surah-Tin; surah/chapter 95. In which God promises by the fig, the olive, by the Mount Sinai and the city of Makkah.

Many modern biblical scholars now believe that the Israelites would have crossed the Sinai peninsula in a straight line, rather than detouring to the southern tip (assuming that they did not cross the eastern branch of the Red Sea/Reed Sea in boats or on a sandbar), and therefore look for Mount Sinai elsewhere.

The Song of Deborah, which textual scholars consider to be one of the oldest parts of the bible, suggests that Yahweh dwelt at Mount Seir, so many scholars favour a location in Nabatea (modern Arabia). Alternatively, the biblical descriptions of Sinai can be interpreted as describing a volcano, and so a number of scholars have considered equating Sinai with locations in north western Saudi Arabia; there are no volcanoes in the Sinai Peninsula;

Ascent

There are two principal routes to the summit. By the longer and less steep track known as Siket El Bashait, is possible to ascend either on foot or by camel hired from the Bedouin along the way - approximate time on foot two and a half hours. The steep, more direct route (Siket Sayidna Musa) ascends the 3,750 "steps of penitence" directly up the ravine behind the monastery.

Summit

The summit of the mountain has a mosque and a Greek Orthodox chapel (which was constructed in 1934 on the ruins of a 16th century church) neither of which are open to the public. The chapel supposedly encloses the rock from which God made the Tablets of the Law. At the summit also is "Moses' cave" where Moses is supposed to have waited to receive the Ten Commandments.

Saint Catherine's Monastery

History:

The oldest record of monastic life at Sinai comes from the travel journal written in Latin by a woman named Egeria about 381-384. She visited many places around the Holy Land and Mount Sinai, where, according to the Hebrew Bible, Moses received the Ten Commandments from God.

The monastery was built by order of Emperor Justinian I between 527 and 565, enclosing the Chapel of the Burning Bush ordered to be built by Helena, the mother of Constantine I, at the site where Moses is supposed to have seen the burning bush; the living bush on the grounds is purportedly the original. The site is sacred to Christianity and Islam.

Though it is commonly known as Saint Catherine's, the full, official name of the monastery is, The Sacred and Imperial Monastery of the God-Trodden Mount of Sinai, and the patronal feast of the monastery is the Transfiguration. The site was associated with St. Catherine of Alexandria (whose relics were purported to have been miraculously transported there by angels) and it became a favorite site of pilgrimage.

Catherine of Alexandria was a Christian martyr initially sentenced to death on the wheel. However, when this failed to kill her, she was beheaded. According to tradition, angels took her remains to Mount Sinai. Around the year 800, monks from the Sinai Monastery found her remains.

According to the Charter of Privileges, a document in the possession of the monastery purportedly signed by Muhammad himself, Muhammed gave his protection to the monastery. A Fatimid mosque was built within the walls of the monastery, but has never been used since it is not correctly oriented towards Mecca.

During the seventh century, the isolated Christian anchorites of the Sinai were eliminated: only the fortified monastery remained. The monastery is still surrounded by the massive fortifications that have preserved it. Until the twentieth century, access was through a door high in the outer walls. From the time of the First Crusade, the presence of Crusaders in the Sinai until 1270 spurred the interest of European Christians and increased the number of intrepid pilgrims who visited the monastery. The monastery was supported by its dependencies in Egypt, Palestine, Syria, Crete, Cyprus and Constantinople.

About the monastery:

The monastery library preserves the second largest collection of early codices and manuscripts in the world, outnumbered only by the Vatican Library. Its strength lies in Greek, Coptic, Arabic, Armenian, Hebrew, Georgian, and Syriac texts. The famous Codex Sinaiticus, now in the British Library, left the monastery in the 19th century for Russia, in circumstances that are now disputed.

The complex houses irreplaceable works of art: mosaics, the best collection of early icons in the world, many in encaustic, as well as liturgical objects, chalices and reliquaries, and church buildings. The large icon collection begins with a few dating to the 5th (possibly) and 6th centuries, which are unique survivals, the monastery having been untouched by Byzantine iconoclasm, and never sacked. The oldest icon on an Old Testament theme is also preserved there. A project to catalogue the collections has been ongoing since the 1960s.

The monastery along with several dependencies in the area constitute the entire Orthodox Church of Mount Sinai, headed by an archbishop, who is also the abbot of the monastery. The exact status of the church within Eastern Orthodoxy is ambiguous; by some, including the church itself, it is considered autocephalous, by others an autonomous church under the jurisdiction of the Greek Orthodox Church of Jerusalem. The archbishop is traditionally consecrated by the Orthodox Patriarch of Jerusalem; in recent centuries he has usually resided in Cairo. During the period of the Crusades, marked by bitterness between the Orthodox and Catholic churches, the monastery was patronised by both the Byzantine Emperors and the rulers of the Kingdom of Jerusalem, and their respective elites. The monastery was an important centre for the development of the hybrid style of Crusader art, and still retains over 120 icons created in the style, by far the largest collection in existence. Many were evidently created by Latins, probably monks, based in or around the monastery in the 13th century.

Abu Galoum protectorate

On the east coast of Sinai on the Gulf of Aqaba , Ras Abu Galoum is well known and famous for most divers, as "coral garden" site there, suppose to be good attraction site for diving and snorkeling.

The whole area was announced a protectorate due to its unique topography where mountains are so close to the sea and due to its rich biodiversity. It has various environmental systems of coral reefs, aquatic creatures, weeds, deserts, mountains and valleys with various birds and different wild plants species.

It lies between Neweba at north and Dahab at south, though nearer to Dahab.

Most divers, as well as hikers go to Ras Abu-Galoum from Dahab (the blue hole). Camels carry the heavy diving gears for divers, while-naturally- hikers walk. This particular narrow track is not passable by any kind of cars. The journey takes from 1 & 1/2 hour to 2 hours whether by foot or by camels till ras Abu-galoum itself.

Only 4 kilometers further to the north (by the sea shore) is another beautiful place of which rare those who come from Dahab, would decide to take those extra few kilometers to visit it. For divers make what they came for, which is obviously diving...while hikers need to rest, freshen up, eat and drink, then all get ready for going back to Dahab in the afternoon.

Unlike Ras Abu-Galoum, which has this touristy and commercial flavor along with heavy camel traffic, the place I’m talking about is very calm and so peaceful *lagoon* with simple huts made mainly from reeds (bous) in which they are lined up right next to the water. Instantly you’d discover that magical serenity that embraces the soul. A perfect place for retreat I very well might say. It’s another Sinai-based ecolodge with less traffic due to its not-easy-to-reach route.

There is no electricity, only candle lights which some times you would prefer not to use for not to spoil the night vision and for being always able to see those beautiful stars glittering in the sky. You can see the lights of Dahab 15 kilometers to the south, as well the lights of Saudi Arabia 20 kilometers to the east.

How to go there:

- If by 4x4, you have no choice but to reach Newaba first. Then either you take the costal track from (fishermen village) heading directly south for exactly 42 km, or, you take Wadi Risasa which will lead you eventually to the costal track couple of kilometers to the north of the lagoon. It's shorter a little bit, but a bit tricky. I took the costal track so that I could watch the sea all the time.

There is almost no getting-stuck on that solid track. Yet tough suspension and sufficient clearance are a must. Bedouins do it with their pick-ups.

- If by sedan car or by bus, you can go to Dahab first. Then deal with the locals to get you (by their cars) to the blue hole. Then either you take camel or walk to ras Abu Galoum + 4km to the lagoon. You can also make it from Newaba.

While you are in that beautiful spot on earth, grounding any negative energies from your body and absorbing peace, is not all what you can do, though it could be enough for some.

As the lagoon is your base, now you can hike directly on the sea shore whether north in the direction to Newaba, or south as if going to ras Abu Galoum and the blue hole. The cool breeze of the sea is really chilling out.

The Gulf of Aqaba (on which you are on) has a very rich marine-life. More than 100 species of corals, 800 species of fish, and hundreds of species of crustaceans and mollusks (mollusks) . No wonder it has the best diving sites in the world, starting from Ras Muhammad in the south all the way north.

While hiking from the lagoon to Ras Abu-Galoum, I've spotted 16 different species of plants. I took numerous photos though. However and for the first look you'd have the impression there isn't much of flora there. Why? Because most of the flora there, as well as most of Sinai's are shrubs/bushes. Those small bushes scattered in all the wadis growing off the ground from 30 cm up to 2 meters (generally speaking) don't seem as rich flora for some people, if not for the majority, including me for quite sometime.

They even give you another impression they are almost the same, as they look alike from a distance, while the truth is far from that. Even couple of meters closer, sometimes is not enough to make you distinguish its kind.

Raising your curiosity to know the different species of this shrub or that makes you get closer for more careful examination. And then you'd discover they are not the same as they look from away. Then your eyes become more trained to tell the difference even from a reasonable distance. Then you'd be amazed to know how much valuable they could be. Ifevery single plant is useful for the whole ecosystem, yet to know what each one is about is totally different story. And finally, your hike is not just a simple walk in the nature any more. You'd enjoy more now, learn more and get even more amazed.

It's well known in Sinai by the names (in Arabic): Samwa and Mashta. The name "Mashta" came from el mesht or yumashet (as a verb) "Comb" in English. And that's because Bedouins have noticed that Camels rub their faces against it, but they don't eat it. It's said that its sticky substance over the leaves works as a repellent effect for insects

In the last decade it has been subjected to extensive overexploitation to be used in folk medicine for curing diabetes. Bedouins use it also to cure insects and scorpion stings and snake bites. And researches are still going on.

After spending such a great time around the lagoon, it was time to go back home. Now heading north to Neweba through the costal track again, almost 16 km before Neweba is the northern border of Abu Galoum protectorate. At this particular spot where the main protectorate building lies, there are ruins of small houses on the shore.

Apparently there was an ancient Bedouin settlement at the area sometime ago. A small plain area by the shore that maybe once it had its fresh water resource.

And some say they were summer houses for Bedouins as they used to spend the hot days by the see where it’s a bit windy. The houses were built mainly from mudbricks and stones, with the use of wood and shells! .

Marsa Alam

Until very recently, Marsa Alam was a small fishing village in Egypt, on the west coast of the Red Sea. However, it has rapidly increased in popularity, and since the opening of its International Airport back in 2001, it has started to become yet another favourite holiday destination on the Red Sea Riviera. In fact, most informed observers believe that it is destined to become as popular a resort as Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada, within the next few years. However, its airport is still small and, as of May 2007, had only one departure gate.

Marsa Alam is situated near the Tropic of Cancer where the Arabian Desert meets the Red Sea, and it has the appearance of a tropical paradise with its palm trees, mangroves and sea coasts fringed with barrier coral reefs. It has already gained a strong reputation amongst scuba divers due to its numerous and unspoilt diving sites both along the coast and offshore. Sightings of spinner dolphins, dugongs and hammerhead sharks are a frequent occurrence for those who venture into its waters.

Marsa Alam also has some inland attractions, such as the Emerald Mines and the Temple of Seti I at Khanais, near also is Marsa Alam Airport.

Average temperatures during the winter months (October to March) range from 18 to 35 degrees Celsius and during the summer months (April to September) from 20 to 45 degrees Celsius. The temperature of the Red Sea at this location during the year ranges from 22 to 29 degrees Celsius.

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Tuesday, March 23, 2010

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